The British Invasion

 This past week I've had the pleasure of getting to spend some time out at Smith Rocks filming some friends of mine climbing some really cool routes.  One of those friends is Ted Kingsnorth who lives in Manchester England, and has traveled over to Smith Rocks several times, and had come this trip looking to do one of the parks ultra classic lines To Bolt Or Not To Be 5.14a.  

Ted midway through the crux on To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a

Ted had been trying the route last fall, but had to return home empty handed due to unusually hot weather, and a bad split on his finger tip.  

He trained throughout the winter eager to get back on the climb in the spring, and when he came out he was soon making major progress on the route, and everyone knew it was just a matter of days before he sent the route.  When the weather cooled down a little on Tuesday he was able to send the line with relative ease.   

Ted sending Slit Your Wrists 5.13b - photo by Greg Kerzhner.

With a couple of days still left on his trip, and with the pressure of trying to send his project now behind him, Ted had an absolutely amazing climbing day yesterday which I was privileged enough to get to belay him on.  It is really amazing to watch someone climb when they are performing at a very high personal level and Ted absolutely tore the park up yesterday cruising up Rude Boys 5.13c then proceeded to on-sight Times Up 5.13b (which was his hardest on-sight to date).  He then finished the day of with another impressive 5.13 ascent of Slit your Wrists 5.13b.  It was incredible to watch.

frame grab of Ted on his send of Rude Boys 5.13c

It was great to get to hang out with Ted this week and experience his infectious passion for the sport of climbing.  

Central Oregon being a bit of a drama queen.